That’s why I am here to provide some more suggestions on the former and the latter. Because they are never enough. There are things that only a Rome citizen can know, and others whose great value is recognized only at a distance, by people who come and visit after they got ready sifting through specific pubblications. The romans must know them as well.

TRASTEVERE DISTRICT: people usually visit only piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere and a few streets not far from it, but only exploring the whole neighbourhood you can appreciate the charming old atmosphere. In piazza San Cosimato there is the outdoor food market, Antica Caciara offers some of the best cheeses in the city and Pasticceria Valzani its traditional pastries. Many other local stores will let you taste the authentic feeling of this place.

JEWISH QUARTER, so-called Ghetto, presents a rich offer of typical roman cooking restaurants and superb ice-cream shops.

VIA MARGUTTA is located between the Spanish Steps and piazza del Popolo. It’s never too busy, and maybe because of this it is so quiet all the time. It’s a residential area for wealthy romans but hosts also high-end restaurants, luxury shops and art galleries. Amid the ancient buildings covered with ivy there is also the house where Gregory Peck lived in the popular movie ‘Roman Holiday’.

DORIA PAMPHILI PALACE: unbelievably beautiful, full of outstanding artistic and architectural details in the interior as well as in the courtyard. The gallery shows artworks from various ages and from many painters such as Velazquez, Raphael and Titian.

CAPUCHIN CRYPT OF SANTA MARIA DELLA CONCEZIONE: this church is in via Veneto, next to piazza Barberini. In the past the monks moved here from the friary of St.Bonaventure and brought with them the bones of around 4000 of their brothers, using their remains to decorate the crypt’s walls.

LARGO DI TORRE ARGENTINA: this square in Rome city center shows some roman ruins, that’s where Julius Ceasar was assassinated. Since the Twenties feral cats started to come and live here (now there are one hundred, more or less) and the ladies’ cats called ‘gattare’ take care of them.

VATICAN NECROPOLIS AND ST.PETER’S TOMB: if you want to come here you need to make a specific request to Vatican Scavi office, then you will go back through 2 millenia. It’s possible to go in the underground where the popes have been buried, as well as St.Peter.

GALLERIA SCIARRA: in via Marco Minghetti, this space was commissioned by a wealthy family to connect the various parts of its property. Now it can be visited and is usually used as a shortcut walking in the neighbourhood. Art Nouveau style, especially in the frescoes and in the iron-glass ceiling.

DOMUS AUREA: after the big fire dated 64, Nero thought an ambitious project, a villa in a 300 acres large area, a complex of marbles, mosaics and precious stones, what would likely represent the best of roman art and engineer, but also its deplorable side: the excesses one. It was destroyed, covered through vegetation and time, finally rediscovered in XV century. The excavations are still ongoing, but it’s already possible to visit a part of it thanks to archaeological guides. The entry is a short walk from Colosseum.

ST.CLEMENT BASILICA: likewise near Colosseum, from the outside it might look like any other church, but it is not. It was built in three levels, in three different ages. The upper part goes back to Medieval time. During the XIX century renovations another IV century basilica was found out. If you go lower than that in the underground you get to a I century building, the temple dedicated to god Mithras.

As we often love to say, Rome is a city full of green spots. PARK CAFFARELLA is 15 minutes walk from the city center and here you can find roman ruins, you can visit a cheese factory (Casale della Vaccareccia), see tombs and mausoleums (Cecilia Metella). Fauna and flora won’t deceive you, there are also water Egeria sources in an evocative place. You will have a refreshing moment if you are tired of walking through the city.

We never get tired of nourishing ourselves, on the contrary. Especially when we sit at a table and ask to eat like romans do.

ARMANDO AL PANTHEON, salita de’ Crescenzi, is at its third generation of family management, it offers a revisited roman cooking and a vegetarian menu as well.

RETROBOTTEGA, via della Stelletta, a few steps from piazza Navona. Everything is homemade, there is a couple of social tables to share and the chance to interact with the chef, to watch the cooking of recipes through the open kitchen and to get fascinated by the artisanal furnishings. PER ME, vicolo del Malpasso, is thereabout, between via dei Banchi Vecchi and via Giulia. Big offer of raw dishes, pasta, fish and dessert. Very rich choice of wine. CUL DE SAC, piazza di Pasquino, goes beyond the usual winebar or bistrot, here you will have an incredible options of wines and of typical roman dishes, but there are also international ones, cheeses, cured meats and classic dessert. COROMANDEL, via di Monte Giordano: elegant as old England may be, comfortable and retro furnishings, menu is not at all obvious.

Il MARCHESE, via di Ripetta: a little bit tavern (in Rome they say ‘osteria’), a little bit French bistrot, it is also a real market where they sell flowers, fruit and vegetables, bread, coffee and flour. There is a ‘sfoglina’ (the woman who usually makes pasta with her own hands) at work while you are there and you can see her, a large choice of liquors and delicious dishes.

PASTIFICIO GUERRA, via della Croce: high quality pasta street-food. CAFFÈ SANT’EUSTACHIO, in the homonym square, is very well known for the coffee.

OSTERIA BONELLI, viale dell’Acquedotto Alessandrino: a kind of a hike from the city center but definitely worthy, so that you can experience one of the most roman restaurants in the city. You will get stout portions of good meals described on the blackboard, the clientele is local.

AL CEPPO, via Panama, in Parioli district: managed by two sisters from Marche region, food is just a mix between roman and marchigian cooking, both of superb quality. The specials are ‘olive ascolane’ (filled and fried olives, typical of Ascoli Piceno), of course. The place is perfect for a Sunday lunch.

SCIASCIA CAFFÈ 1919, via Fabio Massimo, Prati district: they serve one of the best coffee in the Capital, an espresso made through their own blend of beans.

You cannot get bored, it’s a continuous travel amid past and future, tradition and experimentation. The basis for an unforgettable experience are here.

Happy enjoyment to you all

Roberto Fustini

Ig @fustinir Fb Roberto Fustini scrittore

L'articolo GEMS TO DISCOVER IN THE CAPITAL – Going off the beaten tours, eating like romans proviene da Stay in Rome Apartments.

Chi passeggia per le strade di Roma, come in molte altre città, intercetta spesso artisti e intrattenitori che si mescolano ai venditori (più o meno regolari) e agli imbonitori di vario genere. I primi, a differenza degli altri, mirano il più delle volte a incuriosire e divertire i passanti, senza necessariamente aspettarsi un obolo da parte loro. Divulgano la loro arte e le loro abilità soprattutto perché ci credono fermamente.

Ho incontrato Walter Lazzarin che in questo senso è una delle figure più sorprendenti. Lui crea TAUTOGRAMMI. La parola deriva dal greco (significa stessa lettera) e consiste in un componimento le cui parole iniziano tutte con la stessa lettera e dove non ci sono articoli. Era oggetto di esercitazioni poetiche nel Medioevo tra i monaci che adottavano il latino, e in seguito anche il volgare.

Walter si è laureato in Economia aziendale a Bologna e poi si è preso un anno sabbatico per girare tutta L’Europa. Durante quel periodo ha maturato la decisione di iscriversi a Filosofia, che ha frequentato a Padova, e di insegnare Storia e Filosofia, cosa che ha fatto per quattro anni. Dopo l’esperienza da docente ha pensato a un progetto che riunisse le sue due più grandi passioni, ovvero la scrittura e i viaggi. Da questa riflessione è nato il progetto di ‘scrittore per strada’.

Dal 2015 al 2016 ha girato l’Italia per dodici mesi, si è fermato in circa ottanta città e ha prodotto tautogrammi. Grazie a quest’esperienza ‘on the road’ e ai contatti che ne sono derivati, da essa come dalle pubblicazioni sui social network, è stato notato da importanti testate giornalistiche e invitato in alcuni programmi Rai. Il vero colpo di fortuna è stato conoscere un giornalista di Rai Sport che l’ha voluto per un anno nella trasmissione Dribbling a leggere i suoi originali piccoli grandi componimenti. Così nel 2016 arriva a Roma, e qui rimane.

La tradizione di questo tipo di scrittura annovera almeno un italiano, tra quelli più famosi, tale Cieco d’Adria vissuto nel 1500. Poi è andata un po’ a perdersi fino ai giorni nostri, quando è stata rispolverata dal semiologo Umberto Eco. Quando Walter comincia a sfornare i suoi primi componimenti, nel 2011 (poi raccolti in un libro pubblicato l’anno successivo), si guarda intorno e si rende conto che la qualità dei tautogrammi pubblicati da altri autori è abbastanza scarsa. Non accetta il compromesso dell’inesattezza linguistica e grammaticale per il semplice rispetto delle regole che normano questo genere. Ritiene anzi che il valore di queste opere sia proprio nella correttezza della lingua italiana esente da forzature. E questo è il suo impegno, mettendosi a disposizione nelle strade della Capitale.

Perché scegliere di fermarsi proprio a Roma? È una città dove puoi trovare tutto, e non solo per le sue dimensioni. Convoglia come un magnete le più variegate realtà sociali e umane, artistiche e culturali. Certo è una città dispersiva, richiede tanto tempo ed energia, e forse avrebbe bisogno di un cambio di mentalità. Lui auspica una città con molte zone riservate ai pedoni, dove l’uso del mezzo privato sia disincentivato a favore dei mezzi pubblici, dove i quartieri possano vivere in maniera diversa. Quello che comunque lo ha maggiormente convinto a restare sono le persone che qui si dimostrano cordiali, aperte e calorose.

“La scrittura ti dà modo di sviluppare il più possibile quello che hai dentro. Una volta che hai messo su carta (o video, n.d.r.) i pensieri e le storie, puoi andare oltre. Se non scrivi, difficilmente puoi costruire castelli molto grandi, perché ogni volta devi ripartire da zero. La scrittura è un mezzo per crescere continuamente, evolversi ed espandersi”

Walter Lazzarin sceglie un posto in cui fermarsi (una strada, un ponte, una piazza), stende un telo su cui espone i suoi libri, apre il trolley a mo’ di scrivania e vi appoggia sopra la macchina da scrivere. Quindi aspetta che qualcuno si fermi e gli chieda cosa sta facendo. Ecco, questo è un modo per collegarsi direttamente, in tempo reale, a chi legge o ascolta la lettura di ciò che egli ha scritto. Così ha modo di cogliere la reazione genuina e valutare quello che ha fatto. Il vantaggio dell’utilizzare il tautogramma sta nel fatto che la gente non se lo aspetta, e quindi alla sorpresa segue l’applauso spontaneo o l’interesse immediato.

L’esperienza non è sempre uguale, anche all’interno della stessa città. I quartieri sono molto diversi gli uni dagli altri, anche le strade nell’ambito del medesimo quartiere (larghe, strette, trafficate o tranquille) e tutto ciò induce nelle persone comportamenti diversi. Nei quartieri più popolari i passanti spesso lo vedono come un mendicante, in quelli più facoltosi c’è più cultura e la tendenza a fermarsi per capire cosa stia facendo. Per questo Walter predilige quartieri poco turistici ma abitati o frequentati da chi può essere attratto dalla sua realtà.

L’intento, sia chiaro, è quello di avvicinare più persone possibili, a prescindere dalla cultura, dalle tradizioni (e anche dalle religioni) che sempre costringono entro certi confini. Il tautogramma è un ottimo tramite, ma dopotutto lo è la scrittura in genere.

“In questo periodo si scrive tanto, anche chi usa i social network si è reso conto che non basta buttare giù qualche parola, ma occorre creare storie, contenuti che inducano emozioni e reazioni negli altri. In questo la scrittura è superiore, è alla base anche delle altre modalità espressive. Basti pensare alla musica rap/hip hop dove il testo ha molta più importanza rispetto alla musica”

Scrivere e farsi ascoltare, chissà che Walter in questo senso non ci riservi delle sorprese, arrivando magari a sintetizzare un incontro tra musica rap e tautogrammi.

Rifletto su una cosa che mi racconta Walter, di persone che girano per Roma e appendono volantini con piccole poesie in romanesco. Come per tutte quelle scritte sui muri che non sono opera di vandali, mi viene da pensare a una tradizione tipicamente romana che probabilmente ebbe inizio con le cosiddette ‘pasquinate’. Fra il XVI e il XIX secolo si usava pubblicare anonimamente, presso la statua di Pasquino, componimenti satirici in versi per sbeffeggiare il più delle volte l’autorità costituita.

Walter e i suoi tautogrammi, la sua figura di ‘scrittore per strada’, si inscrivono benissimo in quest’atmosfera di comunicazione che travalica i confini della carta stampata e del video. Parole che si connettono con le persone le quali interagiscono spontaneamente, in una modalità che entra a far parte del tessuto sociale della città.

È un circolo virtuoso tutto particolare, uno dei vari volti della cultura che a quanto pare è di casa a Roma. Dalla parola al cittadino, fioriscono le emozioni.

Roberto Fustini

Ig @fustinir Fb Roberto Fustini scrittore

L'articolo DALLE PAROLE ALLE EMOZIONI NELLE VIE DELLA CAPITALE proviene da Stay in Rome Apartments.

I have always been saying that travelling is beautiful as you can admire popular attractions of the places you visit but you can discover as well little treasures off the most beaten paths. You may think that this cannot easily happen in a city like Rome with such monuments to beauty, but if you are attracted by tasting the local, peculiar atmosphere I am telling you it does. There are hidden realities, wonders overwhelmed by most popular highlights and just because of this even people who lead their daily life there may miss them.

Art, culture, but also simple glimpses of landscape are worthy to be found out and known. Here are some tips for less careful eyes:

COPPEDÈ DISTRICT: while you are walking down regular busy streets, turn round the corner and you will find yourself in a kind of fairy-tale-like neighbourhood. Start from via Dora and via Tagliamento, it’s not a long way but you can see at least a couple of very special buildings, as well as the popular Fountain of the Frogs. Not far from there you meet piazza Buenos Aires, with the first South-American national church in Rome, Santa Maria Addolorata. Valuable mosaics on the outside and Neo-Byzantine decoration in the interior.

Let’s move to Celio, where you will find BASILICA DI SANTO STEFANO ROTONDO. Rome hosts around 900 churches, a visit here too is worthy. It was built in the V century and was enriched with frescoes in XVI century. It has a circular structure and charming interiors.

AVENTINE HILL gives you the chance of a peaceful moment amid upscale residences, gardens and churches, as Basilica di Santa Sabina. Orange Trees Garden (Giardino degli Aranci) offers one of the best city views, and if you are fond of this go towards the parking spot in piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta. Behind the big green door a unique view is hidden: you can take a peek through the keyhole and your eye will go through three countries: Knights of Malta’s property, Italy and Vatican City, from where Saint Peter’s Basilica stands out.

JANICULUM HILL (Gianicolo), also called the 8^th hill of Rome, is a good place to stroll and admire the Capital from above, to see the XVII century Aqua Paola Fountain and to hear the cannon which has been shooting blanks each day since 1847 at midday.

It sounds incredible, but in the middle of the city there is an island, maybe the smallest inhabited island in the world. Walking along Lungotevere (Tiber Waterfront) ISOLA TIBERINA is the perfect break. It’s around three football fields large, hosts Basilica di San Bartolomeo (X century) and a 400-year-old hospital still in operation. Over than that, in Summertime the place is full of night venues, as all the walkable waterfront spots, such as restaurants, café and outdoor cinema.

Near Termini railway station there is PALAZZO MASSIMO ALLE TERME, a big collection of Roman artifacts, and the stunning TERME DI DIOCLEZIANO, often site for art shows. This was the largest bathing complex during the Roman empire, together with TERME DI CARACALLA. They are located close to Circus Maximus and were built around 212. They worked as a modern leisure center, as they hosted not only Roman baths, but also sports centers, swimming pools, gardens and libraries.

One very interesting tour regards ANCIENT APPIAN WAY (Appia Antica), the first strategic road which leads to Brindisi, on the Adriatic Sea. You can walk in peace on the old part, though many prefer to go there on bikes or horses. Its beauty is in the original stone road, the remains of temples and mausoleums next to the whole path, as well as in the Roman Aqueduct whose arches dominate the fields and the pine trees. In the same area I suggest to stop at St.Callisto’s catacombs. A very special experience, amid kilometres of tunnels and about 500,000 tombs you can visit in the underground with a guide.

In the end the big lung of such an already green city, VILLA BORGHESE. It’s not only wandering in the biggest public park of the Capital, because you can come up against lakes and fountains, and museums, such as the most popular Galleria Borghese.

In order to fill your belly and fulfil the gluttony, here are some of the best options as far as places attended by demanded romans, most of the times with not such a big expense.

Next to Montecitorio, in vicolo Rosini, there is GINO AL PARLAMENTO, where you can find Italian politicians, place that didn’t change a lot from its Sixties: newspaper clippings on the walls, tables set in an old fashion way and a blackboard with the daily meals, all from the typical roman cooking. In piazza di Firenze CIAO CHECCA is a sort of quality fast-food, gluten-free as well. In the same area as Quirinale, in via Rasella, SORA LUCIA is definitely a culinary institution in the city. Inside Garbatella district AR GROTTINO DER TRASLOCATORE, largo delle Sette Chiese. The neighborhood has a typical atmosphere, and the tavern perfectly fits it. You will go into a cave (grottino means little cave) and will get rich portions of food (traslocatore means mover, so a person who is supposed to eat a lot after work), what romans and Lazio people ate in the past.

DA ENZO AL 29 is located in Trastevere, via dei Vascellari. The true spirit of Rome at the table, the absolute leading actor is the artichoke. In via del Viminale, next to Opera Theater, LA MATRICIANA is elegant but not pretentious, in its rich menu you will find all the details related to the cooked food production chain.

LA FRASCHETTA DI SANDRO in via Galileo Ferraris is the typical tavern run by family for generations where they usually served wine produced by themselves in farms outside Rome. It’s in the heart of Testaccio district and you will occasionally meet other people who like talking or reading a newspaper.

HOSTARIA LO SGOBBONE DA PIPPO in via dei Podesti hasn’t changed a lot in these latest fifty years. It’s one of those restaurants operated by a family serving top quality food. Not far from there, in via Masolino da Panicale, there is OSTERIA MAMMA MIA, a tiny little place where you will feel welcome and where tasting a homemade dessert is a must.

Rome is very tied to traditions but is as well an international city, and above all Chinese who migrated here at the end of last century could be appreciated for their cooking. True is that much of the Chinese recipes are often changed a little to appeal an Italian clientele, but there are some exceptions. HUA QIAO in via Giovanni Giolitti is one of the best restaurants of its kind that you will be able to try.

Enjoyment of the eyes, of the spirit and also of the throat. It’s not paradise, it’s the city of Rome !

Roberto Fustini

Ig @fustinir Fb Roberto Fustini scrittore

L'articolo CULTURE AND FOOD, LOCAL AND HIGH-QUALITY AS PASSWORDS proviene da Stay in Rome Apartments.

In Italy a person aged 12 or older can currently be in one of the following positions: without Green Pass, with a basic Green Pass or a Super Green Pass. It is always compulsory to wear a protective mask (FFP2 is often mandatory in certain public or private areas and activities), and to pay attention to sanitation and social distancing.

No Green Pass: it concerns people who don’t have a proof of Covid-19 recovery nor have undertaken Covid-19 vaccination (which is mandatory for certain categories and for Italian citizens aged 50 or older). 

There are no specific restrictions or requirements in order to pursue essential needs, but in many cases proof of a negative antigenic or PCR test may be necessary. Those who are vaccination exempt are in need to hold an appropriate medical certification.

The certification of a negative Covid-19 test can be acquired through a rapid antigenic test or a molecular (PCR) one which is more reliable but whose results can take up to 48 hours. There are many ways you can get tested: drive in sites, private laboratories, ASL (local medical units part of the national health service), hospitals and some pharmacies (only for antigenic tests). If prescribed by a doctor it may be free, otherwise it has to be paid, and in any case a National Health Card and personal tax code has to be shown. PCR is valid 72 hours starting from the sample collection time, while the antigenic one only 48 hours. Once the results are available, you will obtain a

(Basic) Green Pass: as well as through the above mentioned testing procedures, it can be obtained through a proof of Covid-19 recovery status or two vaccine inoculations during the last 6 months. It is the Italian extension of the EU digital Covid-19 certificate and it can be electronic (on your smartphone) or can also be printed in a chemist’s shop by showing your National Health Card. The basic Green Pass holder can do some essential things, such as go to work, enter public areas and offices but cannot eat or drink indoors. The validity in length of this certificate depends upon variable issues as Covid-19 testing and Covid-19 recovery date or when you received the last vaccine inoculation.

Super Green Pass: in case you have a Covid-19 recovery status or you have received the second vaccine inoculation in the last 6 months, the Green Pass is reinforced, or Super. The booster dose (third inoculation) validity is considered extended for an unlimited timeframe until any decision on a possible fourth dose is taken by the Ministry of Health. Provided that you can be asked for a negative Covid-19 test result in specific situations, through this certificate you can attend indoor or outdoor events, eat and drink in public venues, use accommodations, practice sports indoors or outdoors, visit hospices, use any kind of public transport, attend shows indoors or outdoors.

In case a basic Green Pass or Super Green Pass holder is tested positive, the certificate will be suspended until his recovery, to be demonstrated through a negative Covid-19 test certificate. A person tested positive to Covid-19 who has had inoculation of the booster in the last 4 months is not required to quarantine, but it is compulsory to wear a FFP2 mask all the time. If the last inoculation has taken place before 4 months, the mandatory quarantine period lasts 5 days and has to be followed by a negative Covid-19 test certificate.

Let’s try now to clarify certain travellers’ matters (in one way or another).

When Italy is a transit country and the journey is done through private means of transport and the country is left within 36 hours, a traveller has to follow the rules of the country of destination but has to reach the station, seaport or airport of departure with a negative Covid-19 test certificate (PCR taken in the latest 48 hours, antigenic in the latest 24).

Italy, entry rules: people arriving from EU countries need only to present an EU Covid-19 passport. Travellers from all other countries are requested to fill in a Passenger Locator Form and a Covid-19 certificate which proves whether the holder has been vaccinated, recovered or carries a negative Covid-19 test result (they are also subject to health surveillance and to self-isolation for 5 days). Some countries, for example US, Canada and Japan, have agreements with the Italian government which allow easier movement since a proof of Covid-19 recovery is accepted. It is always better to verify before departure how your “Covid Passport” is considered in Italy (it usually depends upon the type of vaccine you got).

If you have the appropriate requirements, you can go to an Asl (local medical units part of the national health service) and ask for the Italian Green Pass, or simply use yours, which has to state the holder’s identification data, details of the vaccine inoculation, in Italian, English, French, Spanish or German  or be officially translated in one of these languages.

It may happen that the test carried out before departure was negative, and upon arrival you test positive. In this case you will be subject to 10-day quarantine in a Covid-hotel at your own expenses.

Leaving Italy: a traveller has to follow the rules in force in the country of destination, and of course requirements related to means of transport (air, bus, boat or train). The Italian government has agreements with some countries that are classified as Covid-free travel corridors, and thanks to a specific travel pass people are exempt from health surveillance obligations if certain requirements are met. In this regard it’s important to check the Italian website viaggiaresicuri.it (Safe Travelling) in order to get any clarification or update.

As far as moving safely and freely in Italy, the government checks on a daily basis the epidemiological situation in each region, evaluating the quantity of infections and above all the local health systems’ capacity. If one region’s situation becomes problematic, it is ranked as red area. In this case it is advisable to inquire about any restrictions that may be effective. 

All the above is valid until March 31^st 2022, date when the State of Emergency is supposed to expire. I put together the information and helped myself with institutional websites and official press agencies as well as government rulings.

They have to be considered in constant evolution as the present time requires so. This is true for the Italian situation, and abroad too.

A constant monitoring of data and applicable rules, even when comprehensive and  verified, is therefore still required and strongly recommended.

Roberto Fustini

Ig @fustinir Fb Roberto Fustini scrittore

L'articolo TRAVELLING AND LIVING AMID COVID-19 RULES (as far as possible) IN PEACE OF MIND proviene da Stay in Rome Apartments.